Identification of Natural Dyes in the Historical Textiles from Dubrovnik (CROSBI ID 606607)
Prilog sa skupa u zborniku | izvorni znanstveni rad | međunarodna recenzija
Podaci o odgovornosti
Parac-Osterman, Đurđica ; Sutlović, Ana ; Jemo, Danijela ; Bodart, Matthieu
engleski
Identification of Natural Dyes in the Historical Textiles from Dubrovnik
This paper describes an approach to the identification of natural dyes in the historical textile from Dubrovnik: “19th century Velum sample”. Analytical methods confirmed that the fibres taken from a velum are made from a silk in red and green tone color. Two extraction methods were evaluated: the classical methanol / hydrochloric acid extraction and the gently extraction using 5% formic acid in methanol. In both cases, an additional step was an extraction with methanol / dimethylformamide. After the treatment UV-VIS, FTIR-ATR and HPCL, detection was carried out. The results showed that the larger amount of dye was removed from the red and green fibres using mixture of 5% formic acid. Extracted dyestuff analysis indicated mixture of compounds in it. In narrowest and sharpest HPLC peak at 21, 627 min retention time, presence of alizarine was confirmed, while peaks at 29, 183 min and 32, 191 min confirmed purpurine and pseudopurpurine. Moreover, it is known that red hues were obtained using madder (Purpura Peregrina) or sea snails (Murex Purpura or Trunculus). Also, FTIR– ATR of dyed samples revealed a peak at 1741, 41 nm, which presented >C=O group. It can be confirmed that the red coloration on “19th century Velum sample” was proved to be the result of dyeing by natural dye extracted from the madder or Murex Purpura or Trunculus, characteristic for the Dubrovik surrounding. UV-VIS spectrophotometric analysis of green colored fibre showed two peaks in yellow and blue waveband. These results indicated mixture of natural dyestuff. Further research using describe methods will give more information about the source of the dye.
Natural dyestuff; historical textiles; FTIR; HPLC
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Podaci o prilogu
1021-1024.
2013.
objavljeno
Podaci o matičnoj publikaciji
AIC Colour 2013 conference proceedings
MacDonald, Lindsay ; Westland, Stephen ; Wuerger, Sophie
Newcastle upon Tyne: The Colour Group UK and AIC International Colour Association
978-0901623027
Podaci o skupu
12th Congress of the International Colour Association
poster
08.07.2013-12.07.2013
Newcastle upon Tyne, Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo