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Identification of Natural Dyes in the Historical Textiles from Dubrovnik (CROSBI ID 606607)

Prilog sa skupa u zborniku | izvorni znanstveni rad | međunarodna recenzija

Parac-Osterman, Đurđica ; Sutlović, Ana ; Jemo, Danijela ; Bodart, Matthieu Identification of Natural Dyes in the Historical Textiles from Dubrovnik // AIC Colour 2013 conference proceedings / MacDonald, Lindsay ; Westland, Stephen ; Wuerger, Sophie (ur.). Newcastle upon Tyne: The Colour Group UK and AIC International Colour Association, 2013. str. 1021-1024

Podaci o odgovornosti

Parac-Osterman, Đurđica ; Sutlović, Ana ; Jemo, Danijela ; Bodart, Matthieu

engleski

Identification of Natural Dyes in the Historical Textiles from Dubrovnik

This paper describes an approach to the identification of natural dyes in the historical textile from Dubrovnik: “19th century Velum sample”. Analytical methods confirmed that the fibres taken from a velum are made from a silk in red and green tone color. Two extraction methods were evaluated: the classical methanol / hydrochloric acid extraction and the gently extraction using 5% formic acid in methanol. In both cases, an additional step was an extraction with methanol / dimethylformamide. After the treatment UV-VIS, FTIR-ATR and HPCL, detection was carried out. The results showed that the larger amount of dye was removed from the red and green fibres using mixture of 5% formic acid. Extracted dyestuff analysis indicated mixture of compounds in it. In narrowest and sharpest HPLC peak at 21, 627 min retention time, presence of alizarine was confirmed, while peaks at 29, 183 min and 32, 191 min confirmed purpurine and pseudopurpurine. Moreover, it is known that red hues were obtained using madder (Purpura Peregrina) or sea snails (Murex Purpura or Trunculus). Also, FTIR– ATR of dyed samples revealed a peak at 1741, 41 nm, which presented >C=O group. It can be confirmed that the red coloration on “19th century Velum sample” was proved to be the result of dyeing by natural dye extracted from the madder or Murex Purpura or Trunculus, characteristic for the Dubrovik surrounding. UV-VIS spectrophotometric analysis of green colored fibre showed two peaks in yellow and blue waveband. These results indicated mixture of natural dyestuff. Further research using describe methods will give more information about the source of the dye.

Natural dyestuff; historical textiles; FTIR; HPLC

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Podaci o prilogu

1021-1024.

2013.

objavljeno

Podaci o matičnoj publikaciji

AIC Colour 2013 conference proceedings

MacDonald, Lindsay ; Westland, Stephen ; Wuerger, Sophie

Newcastle upon Tyne: The Colour Group UK and AIC International Colour Association

978-0901623027

Podaci o skupu

12th Congress of the International Colour Association

poster

08.07.2013-12.07.2013

Newcastle upon Tyne, Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo

Povezanost rada

Tekstilna tehnologija