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Measurements and Numerical Modelling of Surface Waves in Front of the Port of Split

Wind generated surface waves were measured at V2 station (φ=43°29.3’ N ; λ=16° 27.9’ E) in the Brački Kanal Channel area of the Middle Adriatic, in front of the port of Split. This was undertaken in the time interval from November 2007 to June 2008, by using Datawell MKIII waverider with all its compo-nents. For the analysis and description of extreme sea states maximum recorded wave height Hmax and sig-nificant wave height H1/3 were presented as well as associated wave spectra. The measurement results show that much larger waves appear in the open Adriatic compared to the Middle Adriatic channel area. Numerical modelling of wave generation in the Brački Kanal Channel area and wider island area of the Middle Adriatic Sea was performed by using Mike 21/SW numerical model. Wind field used for the forcing in numerical simulations relies on the results of the prognostic atmospheric model Aladin-CRO. For verification of model results, results of measurement at a waverider station V2 located in front of the port of Split were used. It was concluded that measured and modelled significant wave heights were very well matched.

wind-generated surface waves ; numerical modelling ; wave spectra ; Adriatic Sea

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