hrvatski

Multifunctional Cotton Knit Fabric Pretreatment - Influence on Sewability

Sawing damage is one of the most common sawing problems which trouble the textile and clothing industries. The fabric properties, sawing conditions and mishandling, as selection of sewing needle, fineness of sewing thread, relative air humidity, fabric pretreatment and finishing, play a significant role in the technological process of sewing. Lowering of sewing needle penetration force can assure less damage of knit fabric loops. Therefore, it is necessary to know fabric sewability as well as fabric pretreatment. In this paper the influence of multifunctional pretreatment to cotton knitted fabric sewability was investigated. Therefore, raw cotton knitted fabric was scoured with alkali, and with pectinase. It was bleached, mercerized, cationized and treated with UV absorber. Fabric damage directly influence to its sewability, therefore degree of polymerization was determined. Damage of knitted fabric loops during sewing through two, three and four plies, which are closely connected with the values of sewing needle penetration force and dynamic tension of the sewing thread, were measured on new developed instrument which detects faults in samples of the knitted fabric by means of sensors.

Sawing damage; cotton knitted fabric; multifunctional finishing

Zbornik radova - Tehnološki fakultet u Leskovcu (ISSN 0352-6542)

engleski

Multifunctional Cotton Knit Fabric Pretreatment - Influence on Sewability

Sawing damage is one of the most common sawing problems which trouble the textile and clothing industries. The fabric properties, sawing conditions and mishandling, as selection of sewing needle, fineness of sewing thread, relative air humidity, fabric pretreatment and finishing, play a significant role in the technological process of sewing. Lowering of sewing needle penetration force can assure less damage of knit fabric loops. Therefore, it is necessary to know fabric sewability as well as fabric pretreatment. In this paper the influence of multifunctional pretreatment to cotton knitted fabric sewability was investigated. Therefore, raw cotton knitted fabric was scoured with alkali, and with pectinase. It was bleached, mercerized, cationized and treated with UV absorber. Fabric damage directly influence to its sewability, therefore degree of polymerization was determined. Damage of knitted fabric loops during sewing through two, three and four plies, which are closely connected with the values of sewing needle penetration force and dynamic tension of the sewing thread, were measured on new developed instrument which detects faults in samples of the knitted fabric by means of sensors.

Sawing damage; cotton knitted fabric; multifunctional finishing

Zbornik radova - Tehnološki fakultet u Leskovcu (ISSN 0352-6542)