engleski

Privilege of buying local food: case study of open-air food market Dolac

This presentation is a short summary of ethnological and cultural anthropological research of the Dolac the most famous open-air food market in Croatia’s capital of Zagreb We try to show how traditional food practices are reinvented and given new meanings in open food market Dolac situated in the center of Zagreb. It is a place where small producers, following season calendar, from whole Croatia bring their food products showing heterogeneity of Croatian food culture. In this paper Dolac is considered as a symbol of town culinary identity, but also as a marker of culinary heritage of all Croatian regions. Above all, we discuss its role as a belly of Zagreb in historical perspective and in recent times. Despite of modern food supply chains, where one doesn't know food origin, and the fact that this may cause many food scares and anxieties, Dolac isn't alternative model of food products distribution like it's equivalents in some European countries, but persisting tradition adjusting to present market demands. Cultural and anthropological approach enable us to see Dolac as anachronic alimentary exhibition, which displays different patterns of sociability and narratives. Following dynamics of Dolac on daily and weekly basis we describe relations between buyers and producers/sellers, with emphasize on buyers trust in short food supply chain, communication between producers/sellers, but also image of Dolac seen by tourist gaze. In recent years image of Dolac, as a market for foodies, transformed in one of the most popular tourist attractions, unavoidable part of all sightseeing tours in Zagreb.

open food market ; Dolac ; Croatia ; traditional food practices ; cultural and anthropological perspective

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